I didn’t know exactly what I was chasing when I set out from Abidjan with a backpack, a loosely penciled route, and a healthy dose of curiosity. The plan—if you could call it that—was to make my way overland from Côte d’Ivoire across Liberia, and eventually to Sierra Leone. I had already previously traveled overland from Senegal to Guinea-Conakry across Gambia and Guinea-Bissau, so I thought I’d know what to expect. What followed, however, was an unforgettable journey shaped more by chance encounters, sweaty border crossings, and unexpected twists and turns than I could have ever imagined.
This isn’t the kind of trip you plan down to the hour. It’s the kind that unfolds in real time—on muddy roads, through jungle heat, with just enough signal to send an “I’m alive” message now and then. And yet, between the detours and dust, a kind of magic appeared.
Here’s what really happened—across ten days, three countries, and an endless number of moments I’ll never forget.
Day 0: Arrival in Abidjan (ABJ), Côte d’Ivoire
If you’ve been to West Africa before, you might be in for a surprise when you arrive at Abidjan Félix-Houphouët-Boigny International Airport. It’s a highly modern, efficient, comfortable (air-conditioned) airport, and a wonderful introduction to perhaps the most livable country in the region.
Flying In
Flights to Abidjan (ABJ) come from major hubs like Accra, Addis Ababa, Dakar, Paris, and Casablanca. You’ll want your ducks in a row before landing—
- eVisa Pre-Approval: Apply online at least 48 hours in advance. The visa office is on the left side once you descend the arrivals escalator—look for a cluster of sleepy officials with stamps and printers.
- Cost: 73€ online + proof of payment AND pre-approval letter. Both printed. Don’t wing it.
Airport Essentials
- SIM Cards: Orange and MTN available after exiting customs.
- ATMs: Four to choose from—go with the standalone Societe Generale ATM, which has a private room and is more likely to work with your foreign debit card.
Getting Around Côte d’Ivoire
Public Buses
The king of intercity travel? UTB (Union des Transports de Bouaké)
- Clean, on-time, decently comfy.
- App available (for Android only).
- Must find the Nouvelle Gare UTB Koumassi for departures.
- Departure times matter—especially for trips to the West (like Man).
- Bonus: Volvo and Marco Polo buses feel like mobile AC lounges in West Africa (often TOO cold-bring a sweater!).
Other Options:
- GT, ST, GTT—all less formal, sometimes more “adventurous.”
- Always ask about “direct” routes, unless you enjoy unexpected detours.
Rideshares and Taxis
Uber, Yango, and Moja rideshare apps are available in Ivory Coast—and take away the hassle of negotiating (for the most part). We used Uber and Yango quite often around Abidjan, but on our way back from Grand-Bassam no drivers were available. The restaurant we ate at called a taxi for us, but the driver ripped us off egregiously (even after agreeing to a price beforehand), so we hopped off as soon as we could, took a local 12-seater bush van back to the city, then called a Yango.
Day 1: Grand-Bassam – Colonial Echoes & Coastal Breezes
Visiting Grand-Bassam, Côte d’Ivoire is truly the epitome of day trips you can take from Abidjan. A UNESCO town with colonial ruins, oceanfront cafes, and slow charm, Grand-Bassam has a ton to offer.
The ruins were eerie but completely fascinating—climbing up to the second floor felt like being in a James Bond movie. Locals grilled seafood right on the beautiful beach, and the smoky scent drifted through the salty air. Ended the day with a fancy seafood dinner and a killer cocktail—one of the trip’s highlights.
You can take local taxis or bush taxi vans—a fun, very local (and inexpensive) experience—to reach Grand-Bassam.
Highlights:
- Historical Quarter: Crumbling but romantic. Think: faded French villas tangled in vines.
- Beach: Wide and uncrowded, perfect for a chill swim.
- Food: Try grilled fish and alloco (fried plantains) at beachfront shacks.
- Hotel: Recommend staying at Golden Palace Hotel, simple and peaceful.
Day 2: Laissez Passer & Life in Abidjan
The next day, we explored Abidjan and made it to the Ministère d’Etat, Ministère De l’Interieur et de la Sécurité to obtain a “Laissez Passer“—a must for overland border crossing out of Côte d’Ivoire). The staff was friendly and excited to help us out (and surprised we knew how to find them), and the entire process only took about 15 minutes.
We didn’t find that much to do in Abidjan, but the quality dining and cafes make it a good rest stop. The Salam Mosque of Plateau is stunning, and there’s of course the Musée des Civilisations de Côte d’Ivoire to explore on a rainy day.
If you have extra time, you can try and get your Visa for Liberia instead of obtaining a crazy expensive Visa On Arrival like we did.
Eats & Treats:
- Local restaurants and also some seriously good Lebanese-owned restaurants. Definitely recommend trying out Le Mechoui, a swanky spot with incredible views over the lagoon.
- City vibes: green, humid, chaotic, yet strangely calming.
- Slept in a lovely Airbnb on the outskirts: Maison Sopi, locally owned by Stephane who speaks multiple languages and is super smart and friendly! It’s a respite in nature just outside the city.
Day 3: The Odyssey to Man
What was supposed to be a simple bus ride became an odyssey. Late breakfast turned into missing the last bus departure to Man. That turned into scrambling to find a driver, and paying an insane price to drive all the way to Man (which takes over 7 hours by car).
We stopped at Yamoussoukro on the way to visit the fabulous Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, which frankly looks out of place there. But we also found great takeaway pizza in town, so it was definitely worth it.
Funny story, a police officer pulled us over and fined our poor driver for the silliest reason – an “expired” first aid kit. Literally anything he could find to ask for a bribe. Not more than 30 minutes after that happened, our car broke down hard and it took over an hour to fix.
The drive stretched on forever, every bump testing our patience. By the end, we were sweaty, cranky, and wondering when it would all be over.
And this was the easy way!
- Missed all buses (last ones roll out by 9:30AM)
- Hunted down a private driver via 4 different numbers.
- Paid 175k CFA, after endless negotiating.
- Got stopped by police at 10PM demanding bribes.
- Car broke down. Of course.
- Another checkpoint. Another delay.
- Arrived at Man around midnight.
Tip: Just fly. Air Côte d’Ivoire can be cheaper and infinitely easier. Plus they serve peanuts.
You can fly directly from Abidjan to Korhogo, which is known for its unique Korhogo cloth and famous Panther dance. If we had more time, we would have loved to visit the nearby Grande Mosquée de Kong, a 300 year old neo-Sudanese style mosque.
Stayed at: Hotel Les Cascades. Functional, not fancy. Includes breakfast, air conditioning – all you need. There’s a nice little artisan stand just outside the hotel grounds as well.
Day 4: Dent de Man Hike – Jungle Meets Sky
Woke up to birdcalls, had delicious breakfast at the hotel, then hit the trail for the Dent de Man, a jungle ridge with cinematic views. Note that as soon as you make it to the trailhead, locals will swarm you. They charge 2000 CFA to hike Le Dent Du Man, an additional 1000 CFA to go to the waterfalls, and around 15-20K for a local guide, who they will tell you is mandatory (it’s not).
It’s a fabulous, fun, and scenic hike – so I definitely recommend it in spite of the hassle. Jumping into the waterfall pool afterward? Bliss.
- The hike winds past coffee plants, river crossings, village kids playing, women washing laundry in the river. It takes roughly 3-4 hours.
- Official guide says he’s “required.” (He’s not, really.) But he brought us to the local village after the hike and showed us how the locals do:
- Local weaving
- Cocoa & cassava processing (by hand!)
- Handicrafts & woodwork
- Very wholesome and worth it. We also saw how the locals live, some local traditions, tried a local liquor, and met very interesting (and friendly) village people!
Day 5: Overland to Liberia – Jungle Borders & Unexpected Delays
We drove deep into the jungle toward the Danané/Dobakui border into Libera, much of it on dirt track. The border is, even for West Africa standards, very small and rustic. However, it was mostly uneventful until we crossed into Liberia….
- We arranged a Visa on Arrival via Jos Travel & Tours ($350 USD—pricey, includes transport, but worth it).
- The Liberia side felt like crossing into the Lost World—dirt tracks, overgrown vegetation, concrete ruins, jungle sounds. We had to cross an old bridge to get to the other side.
- Jos helped us through, managing the delays, drama, confusion, and paperwork.
Jos had to explain the visa on arrival process to the border agents, who looked mystified. It tool an hour or two, but eventually they talked to some ‘superiors’ and let us in.
About an hour of driving later, our SUV broke down. And when I say it broke down, it broke down hard. Oil and water were coming out the exhaust… I’m pretty sure that’s not supposed to happen.
It took awhile to find a replacement, so we didn’t arrive at the lush Libassa Ecolodge until quite late. Luckily, we found it to be a surprise oasis after a day of chaos. The rooms are great and the resort itself is very comfortable, with delicious seafood and a lovely beach.
Day 6: Monrovia – History & Hilltop Haunts
In the morning, we took advantage of the ecolodge to visit the in-house wildlife sanctuary, where endangered bushmeat victims get a second shot at life (sea turtles are also protected here). If you end up with more time, you can also go kayaking/paddle boarding, enjoy the lazy river, do some yoga, visit the local Chimp Island, and even take a local cooking class. It’s a fantastic place for a mini-vacation.
We enjoyed a relaxing morning before driving into Monrovia, Liberia’s capital—a buzzing city with colonial bones and chaotic charm. We made it right in time to visit the National Museum (which frankly was formidable—really learned a lot). At sunset, we walked up to the abandoned hotel on Ducor Hill for epic views over the city.
What We Did:
- National Museum: A crash course on the American Colonization Society, the civil war, and women’s rights movements.
- Climbed the abandoned Ducor Hotel at sunset. Surreal views. Ghost town energy.
- Recommend staying at The Cape Hotel, next to the US Embassy.
- We felt surprisingly safe walking around the city at night. Lots of supermarkets and restaurants open until quite late.
Day 7: Robertsport – Shipwreck Dreams
Perhaps my favorite day of the whole trip involved a totally unplanned trip. We had wanted to visit the real-life Pirates of the Caribbean shipwreck just chilling on the beach outside Robertsport and somehow cross the border into Sierra Leone the same day. What were we thinking?! It wasn’t even our first time in West Africa.
We hired a private driver hoping to save some time, but alas, the road was full of potholes, trucks, and traffic. It took far longer than expected to arrive in Robertsport, and when we got there we found out the shipwreck was several kilometers down the beach! In spite of literally sprinting to the shipwreck and grabbing as many photos and videos as possible before coming back, there was no way to make it to the Bo Waterside border before its early closing time of 5PM.
Luckily, there are quite a few hotels with amazing vibes right on the beach, and some fresh seafood/local cooking to go along with it. In the end, we were super happy we got to chill the whole afternoon on the beach and watch the sunset from this wonderful, secluded part of the planet.
- Climbed the massive shipwreck (dangerously rusty, falling apart like me, 10/10 would do it again).
- Gorgeous, empty beaches, lovely and warm water.
- Kicked back, swam, and forgot the world existed beyond this slice of coast. Also tried some local delicious beer!
- Stayed in a local guesthouse. Expensive food, but fresh and so worth it.
Day 8: Lake Piso – Canoe Crossing to Liberia’s Wild North
Here’s where it gets cinematic. We had the brilliant idea to skip driving in the wrong direction through potholes to get back to the main road by taking a little canoe across Lake Piso to the other side. In theory, it was a great idea. In practice though, it was a different story…
Being fully loaded with multiple suitcases, 4 people on a tiny handmade kayak, propelled by a tiny poorly maintained outboard engine perhaps isn’t the best idea. But it does make for a fun story – especially when it starts slowly sinking halfway across the lake.
Luckily, we made it (feet wet) to Sawelor on the other side. But with no cell service, we had to ask the local villagers to gather rides for us out to Bo. Luckily, these mototaxis were quite inexpensive, although the ride was definitely a bit long and bumpy (mostly sand track until the highway). It probably took 2 hours or so to get to the border with Sierra Leone (at Bo).
- Hired a local fisherman’s canoe to cross Lake Piso—wooden boat, no life vests, all baggage onboard.
- Arrived in tiny Sawelor, then negotiated with local moto drivers to reach the Bo Liberia border.
- Felt like Lara Croft on vacation.
Crossing from Liberia to Sierra Leone
The border crossing from Liberia to Sierra Leone was perhaps the easiest and most professional, corruption-free crossing we’ve had in all of West Africa. Maybe we got lucky, but it was seamless.
You can easily obtain SIM card at the border—Orange 13GB maybe costs 1 or 2 Euro.
We arranged a transfer with the Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary via WhatsApp from the border. A tiny little, old beaten up 2WD Toyota taxi came to pick us up. Once we got off the highway towards the sanctuary, things definitely took a turn for the worse. The road slowly but surely turned into pure mud, and we spent a lot of time skidding, flinging mud everywhere, feeling sorry for this little 2WD revving its engine RPMs to the sky just to move 3 miles per hour. It was laughably fun (the car died like a million times), but to our pleasant surprise we did eventually make it, right in time for sunset.
Local villagers helped us carry our luggage onto the sanctuary’s private motorboat, which takes you to the secluded, wonderful island. The sanctuary facilities are quite basic and rustic, but definitely good enough for a night’s rest.
We arranged for a wonderful, relaxing canoe ride (as if we hadn’t had enough!) around the island for sunset when a massive, and I mean absolutely drenching thunderstorm hit. We stayed out—what’s a little bit more adventure when you’re already in West Africa? It ended up being absolutely unforgettable.
- Sunset canoe ride in a thunderstorm: soaked, electric, unforgettable.
- Slept to the sound of jungle.
Day 9: Tiwai Island – Monkeys, Birds, and Much Needed Peace
After a night of thunder-soaked canoeing around the riverbanks of Tiwai Island, we woke up to a misty, jungle-humid morning. The air smelled like wet earth and papaya. This day was all about connecting with nature—and then reconnecting with Sierra Leone’s dusty roadways.
We started with a nature walk, guided by one of the local conservationists. It was slow-paced and serene—perfect after days of bouncing around in vehicles. Along the trail, we saw:
- Red colobus and Diana monkeys swinging like Olympic gymnasts overhead
- Birds in every color, from electric blue kingfishers to hornbills with wings like kites
- Clusters of cocoa pods and wild banana plants
- Fresh leopard tracks (!!) in the mud (don’t worry, no actual leopards sighted)
Our guide explained the community-driven conservation model—villagers have ownership of the land and a stake in protecting it, which is why Tiwai remains a vibrant biodiversity hotspot instead of a forgotten hunting ground. It’s also why Tiwai means “big island” in Mende, and why it feels like a sacred sanctuary surrounded by a sleepy river moat.
Tiwai Island to Freetown (with at stop at Bunce Island)
Once we’d had our fill of monkeys and mist, it was back to civilization… or at least, the start of it. We took the same bumpy ride to Bo, Sierra Leone’s second-largest city and the gateway to the north.
From Bo, we had arranged a private taxi to Lungi (900K SLL / ~$55)—a beat-up old Toyota that somehow still believed in itself. The drive was long but scenic: winding roads, red clay hills, waving kids, endless palm trees, and roadside sellers with everything from kola nuts to phone credit to live chickens.
Our goal: to reach Freetown—but with a detour to Bunce Island, one of the most hauntingly beautiful historical sites in the region.
We first stopped at Lungi, where we:
- Took a motorbike taxi to Pepel (25K SLL, exhilarating and mildly terrifying)
- Then hired a local canoe boat for a short trip to Bunce Island
Once a major hub in the transatlantic slave trade, Bunce is a chilling and powerful place. Moss-covered ruins of a British fort still stand, facing the water like they’re waiting for ships that will never return. We wandered among the crumbling stone buildings—cells, quarters, storage spaces—soaked in history and quiet. You can feel the sorrow and strength in the silence. A local guide offered stories, and if you’re lucky, he might even read from the journals of enslaved people who passed through here.
The return journey was a bit of a logistical puzzle:
- Moto from Bunce landing to Tagrin, the ferry terminal
- Then catch the ferry across to Freetown (check the schedule—last boat is often around sunset)
Tip: Tagrin to Freetown ferry is cheap and safe, and actually scenic in a weird industrial-harbor-meets-mangrove way.
Day 10: Bunce Island & Freetown Finale
Freetown might just be West Africa’s most underrated capital. Built between rolling hills and a turquoise coastline, it pulses with life—colorful markets, honking taxis, chaotic intersections, and bright wall murals that read like political manifestos.
We kicked off the day with a visit to the Sierra Leone National Museum, a small but impactful place in the heart of town. Exhibits covered:
- The country’s Krio heritage and the return of freed slaves from the Americas
- The haunting story of the Ebola epidemic and local resilience
- Women’s rights movements and stories of peacebuilders
- Traditional masks, tribal artifacts, and musical instruments that you can actually touch
It’s a great intro to how Sierra Leone is deeply pan-African, diasporic, and uniquely itself.
In the afternoon, you should definitely enjoy some fresh juice (highly recommend ginger + pineapple) and take a shared taxi toward the western peninsula, to see the ocean at least one more time. There are dozens of beaches here, but a few stand out:
- River Number Two – Yes, that’s the name. It’s postcard-perfect with white sand, a gentle river estuary, and zero crowds.
- Bureh Beach – More local and lively, with great surf and fried fish on the beach.
- Tokeh Beach – A bit fancier, with small resorts and sunset cocktails.
Make sure to end the night with grilled fish, plantains, and a cold Star beer by the beach.
Safe, walkable, even at night—Freetown felt like a surprise gift at the end of the journey.
Flying out from Freetown
If you plan to continue into Guinea-Conakry, make sure not to miss The Ultimate One Month West Africa Itinerary! That’s another incredible, and fun-filled adventure awaiting you.
But if you are leaving from Freetown’s FNA Airport, make sure to plan your timing carefully. It’s recommend to leave at least 3–4 hours ahead. Traffic can be brutal, and the ferry adds a lot of time. If you miss/skip the ferry, it’s over a 3 hour drive from Freetown to the airport!
Costs (per person unless otherwise stated)
| Route | Cost (USD/CFA) |
|---|---|
| Abidjan to Man (private driver) | 175k CFA |
| Man to Border | 55k CFA |
| Border to Libassa (Jos’ VOA) | $350 |
| Libassa to Monrovia | $35 |
| Monrovia to Robertsport | $70 |
| Robertsport Canoe to Sawelor | $10 |
| Sawelor to Border (Moto) | $26 (total for 3) |
| Bo to Tiwai Island | $73 |
| Tiwai to Bo | $40 |
| Bo to Lungi | $55 |
| Moto + Bunce Island Boat | ~$30 total |
| Shared taxi Freetown–Tiwai | ~$15 |
Optional Add-ons / Hidden Gems
If you have more time, definitely don’t miss these other hidden gems.
- Korhogo, CI: Fly or drive north to this artsy city known for traditional crafts and animist culture.
- Tai National Park: Renown for Western Chimpanzees and other primates.
- Mount Nimba: Border region between CI, Liberia, and Guinea—a stunning, biodiverse UNESCO biosphere.
- Sapo National Park (Liberia): Remote rainforest, tough to access but worth it for intrepid wildlife lovers.
- Bureh Beach (Sierra Leone): A top surf spot with rustic charm, perfect for lazy days.
- Tokeh Beach (Sierra Leone): Picture-perfect with turquoise waters and gentle sands.
Conclusion: West Africa, Unfiltered
This journey wasn’t for the faint-hearted—or the rigidly scheduled. It was dusty, sweaty, occasionally bureaucratically bizarre, and gloriously unfiltered. But if you’re willing to embrace the chaos and find the rhythm within it, this route from Côte d’Ivoire to Liberia and on to Sierra Leone delivers a kind of raw magic you won’t find in polished itineraries or on glossy travel blogs.
You’ll eat seafood grilled over a driftwood fire, swim under waterfalls, argue with border agents over visa stamps, and gain a new sense of appreciation for handmade wooden canoe boats. You’ll also meet some of the kindest people, experience landscapes that shift from jungle to beach in a blink, and carry a whole new set of inside jokes, mosquito bites, and memories that feel like fever dreams in the best way.
If you’re looking for comfort, stay home.
If you’re looking for stories—pack your bag.
