There are places that defy easy storytelling. Syria is one of them. A country rich with history, one where in the midst of so much destruction, people still open their doors and share tea with strangers.
I spent seven days exploring Syria, from Damascus to Homs, Hama, Idlib, Aleppo, Palmyra, Raqqa, and Deir Ezzor. What I found wasn’t just rubble or ruins, but life, joy, and friendliness. And a kind of resilience and selfless hospitality you don’t find in “normal” countries.
This isn’t the Syria you see on the news. It’s a place of warmth, beauty, and true kindness.
Here’s my honest, detailed itinerary – with tips on visas, borders, safety, and the moments that reminded me why I fell in love with traveling.
7-Day Syria Itinerary Map (2025): Border Crossing, Cities, and Sights
When you visit Syria, it’s not the kind of trip that’s all about ticking off destinations. It’s about seeing Syria for what it is today – especially its people.
So here’s a look at my 7-day Syria journey on a map, with driving directions, restaurants, hotels, soups, and sights all included in one map (make sure to bookmark this page for reference!).
(If you’re planning your own trip, you can save this map and customize it!)
Itinerary at A Glance: 7 Days in Syria
- Beirut, Lebanon – The vibrant gateway before entering Syria.
- Masnaa Border Crossing – Land border with Lebanon.
- Damascus – Syria’s ancient capital, full of history and resilience.
- Homs – Scarred by conflict but rebuilding, with powerful human stories.
- Hama – Home of the iconic water wheels and beautiful Ottoman quarters.
- Idlib – Former capital of HTS, still tense yet important city.
- Aleppo – One of the world’s most ancient cities, rebuilding and resilient.
- Ar Raqqa* – Rebuilding from its ISIS past, with locals working to reclaim daily life.
- Deir Ezzor – On the Euphrates, healing slowly from years of war.
- Palmyra – The haunting desert ruins that once rivaled Rome.
- Bosra – Spectacular Roman ruins, in fantastic condition.
⚠️ Important Note: Ar Raqqa requires special permits and is best visited with a trusted local fixer or agency. Sometimes it is not possible
➜ Jump to: Damascus Guide | Homs Guide | Hama Guide | Aleppo Guide | Palmyra Guide | Raqqa Guide | Deir Ezzor Guide
Getting Into Syria
Visa on Arrival for Syria in 2025 (as of July 6, 2025, no longer free at land borders)
As of July 2025, many nationalities are eligible for a visa on arrival at either a land border or at Damascus International Airport. The difference is, as of now (and likely to change soon – per local reports), the visa is free if you enter by land.
The visa fees, starting around $40 and going up to $300 depending on nationality, are required at the airport and as of July 6, 2025, at land borders in USD cash for a visa on arrival.
You can now fly directly to Damascus airport from Dubai, Sharjah, Bucharest and Istanbul (Cham Air, Dan Air, Turkish Airlines). And apparently, both Qatar Airways and the Lufthansa group recently made a visit to check out the viability of starting direct air service to Damascus!
Getting to Syria by Land in 2025
The land borders with Iraq and Turkey are closed to foreigners, leaving Jordan and Lebanon as the only options to enter Syria by land.
From Jordan
There’s a twice daily (7AM and 1PM) bus departure from Amman, Jordan direct to Damascus via JETT.
One-way tickets currently cost 10JOD, while round trip tickets go for 15JOD. You can book via contact (in Arabic) via WhatsApp to +962 6 566 4141, or directly via the JETT website.
Al-Kamal offers nicer buses with WiFi, but the price goes up to 35 JOD each way. They have departures at 8AM and 2PM, and you must book at the bus station.
Pro Tip: Obtain a double entry visa entering Jordan for 60JOD, rather than paying 2x 40JOD for single entry visas.
From Lebanon
In Beirut, the Cola Station/Total Gas Station is the place to be for shared taxi vans. These normally cost $35 per person and will wait to fill up before leaving. You can pay extra to leave sooner and even if you’d like a private taxi.
Pro Tip: Considering the visa entry fees for Jordan, it’s roughly $30-40 cheaper to enter and exit from Lebanon. Make sure to consider airfare.
7-Day Syria Itinerary: Ruins, Beauty, and Heartwarming Stories
Day 1: The Road from Beirut to Damascus:A Border of Two Worlds
We left Beirut just after sunrise, stopping for a breakfast of tea and delicious manoushi flatbread in the border town of Chtoura. The 45 minute drive to the Syrian border took us on windy roads across beautiful mountain landscapes.
How to Cross from Lebanon to Syria in 2025: My Personal Story & Travel Tips (Masnaa Border)
Exiting Lebanon went smoothly and easily. But there was a problem when I tried to enter Syria.
After waiting in line about 10 minutes, the officer scanned my passport and immediately looked concerned. One of his superiors pulled me aside and asked, “You work for Delta Air Lines, right?” I was shocked. How did he know?
Immediately my mind flashed back to the time I was nearly detained crossing from Senegal to the Gambia back in 2021. I almost had to wipe my entire phone – and I was not ready to do that again.
Well, turns out my visa had been rejected under the previous regime when I tried to apply after the 2023 earthquake on a humanitarian, volunteer basis. And that rejection was still flagging me in their system.
The officer took me to a back office, offered me a cigarette, exchanged pleasantries, made a few calls, and before I knew it, I was on my way. Overall, it was the most pleasant “there’s an issue” border crossing I’ve ever had! Many thanks to my tour guide, Dana Aldaoud (Mozaic Tours), who helped facilitate this process with her contacts at various government offices in Damascus.
We hit the road again, and the moment we crossed the final border check into Syria, the landscape transformed. Not just visually. Energetically.
The road into the capital was pristine. Highway systems gleamed. Palm trees and bursts of pink and white flowers lined the route. I was surprised by the number of new developments alongside the road, and enthralled for the journey to come.
Damascus: The Beating Heart of Ancient and Modern Syria
The world’s oldest continuously inhabited capital didn’t at all feel like it had just endured years of war and trauma. Instead, it felt regal. Touched by time, yes. Scarred, certainly. But also fragrant, vibrant, alive.
First Glimpse of Damascus
We started the day at the National Museum, a truly brilliant testament to the history and resilience of the Syrian people. On the top level, above stone sarcophagi and Byzantine relics were new exhibits documenting the people’s resistance — artwork, videos, and tributes to the human cost of silence. Most of them pertaining to the horror and tragedy at Sednaya Prison and oppression during the Baath regime.
Overlooking the museum is the majestic Four Seasons hotel, now privately managed by a secret owner, and honestly it’s so beautiful on the inside that it alone is a fascinating tourist attraction to visit.
At Al-Hamidiyeh Souq, I wandered through covered alleyways bursting with life. Antiques, silks, friendly locals — and the best part: delicious boozah ice cream at the 130-year old Bakdash parlor, with swirling mounds topped with pistachio and cotton candy. I still see the smile of the workers mashing the ice cream to maximize its elasticity and yumminess.
As you exit the souq through the gorgeous Muskiah gate, you stumble upon the grandeur of the incredible Umayyad Mosque, perhaps the most spectacular place in all Damascus. Walking in, you are bedazzled by delicate Ajami-adorned ceilings, incredible marble, and the beauty of a thousand colors raining in from each direction. The peace, serenity, and calmness is truly meditative.
Post-Ice Cream Explorations
Nearby, the grand Al-Azem Palace and Khan As’ad Pasha dazzled me with their Ottoman mosaics and quiet courtyards, charming bathhouses (hammams) and fountains.
The streets of Medhat Basha were a window into a Damascus few outsiders see — wooden furniture inlaid with mother of pearl, ancient Damascus steel swords, and lovely cafes. We entered a store looking for a postcard, and when we found one the store owner refused to take our money! We insisted. He insisted more. We compromised by offering candy for his kids.
The beautiful Al Hijaz Train Station, now turned into an incredibly gorgeous and well-preserved museum, hosts an exposition of incredible resistance artwork and history underneath intricate and absolutely stunning Ajami-decorated ceilings. The guards here are really lovely and friendly, despite their outwardly appearance in full military decor.
Savoring Damascus and its Beauty
Throughout our explorations, we savored delicious street food falafel, manoushi flatbread, and shawarma. In terms of restaurants, for a high-end experience, Ammoula offers an incredible selection and excellent hookah. In the Old Town, don’t miss Naranj — the oldest restaurant in Damascus, one locals dress up to visit for special occasions or just to feel like they’ve ‘made it’ in life.
By night, the city glowed. I walked around 45 minutes around the Old Town, soaking in the energy and beauty of Bab Touma. Locals laughed over hookah at fancy lounges and rooftop cafes. Families strolled the streets late into the night. Even the cars — BMWs, Maseratis, the occasional Bentley — suggested a Damascus not just surviving, but thriving.
Top Places to See in Damascus in 2025:
- The ancient Al-Hamidiyeh Souq, the largest market in Damascus dating back to the Ottoman era. It hosts the famous Bakdash ice cream parlor.
- Al-Azem Palace, the former Mamluk palace used as a residence for the governor of Damascus, As’ad Pasha al-Azm during the reign of Sultan Mahmud I.
- Khan As’ad Pasha, a major stop during the muslim caravans. You can still see the rooms where merchants used to stay.
- Saladin Mausoleum, a cool, beautiful, serene place of worship.
- The National Museum — an absolute must see, not just for its Nabatean, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman relics (as well as perfect refabulated ruins and tombs), but also for its civil war resistance pieces.
- Medhat Basha, the oldest inhabited street in the world! Full of lovely shops and cafes.
- Hanania Church, where it is said that Saul was baptized by Hanania, a disciple of Jesus Christ. One of the oldest churches in the world.
- The Al Hijaz Train Station, an absolutely stunning and perfectly preserved station, converted into a resistance museum that speaks to your soul.
- Bab Touma, the most beautiful part of Damascus — its heart and soul, the Old Town. A great place to have tea with some locals.
- The Four Seasons Hotel, if simply to enjoy its stunning architecture and interior design. There is a little cafe/restaurant as well.
- Last but not least, the Umayyad Mosque — considered the centerpiece of Damascus, and one of the oldest and largest mosques in the world.
Where to Stay in Damascus
- Luxury: Four Seasons Damascus – The most luxurious five-star hotel in Syria, with sweeping views of the city, guarded security, and international-level service. The best if you want comfort and discretion. Note – the hotel sells out months ahead. To secure a booking, contact Dana Aldaoud (Mozaic Tours) on WhatsApp (+963988265319) and mention thepilotwhoexplores.
- Mid-Range: Beit Al Wali – A beautifully restored 18th-century Damascene house with classic decor, intimate courtyards, and a location right in the old city. My personal pick for charm + authenticity.
- Budget: Golden Mazzeh – Not fancy, but often used by domestic tourists.
- Other options: You may also find a room in local guesthouses via a fixer (like Dana above) or direct contact (usually via WhatsApp). Ask for Bab Touma area for affordable private rooms ($15–$30/night).
Day 2: Maaloula, Homs, Hama, Idlib
We began the day with a delicious local breakfast at the hotel (very typical: prune jam, zaatar, olive oil, labneh, eggs, and pita bread), prepared for the long journey ahead. When we embarked on the 1.5 hour drive from Damascus. I was pretty jet-lagged, so I slept the whole way there, awakening to the beautiful ancient city of Maaloula.
Maaloula: Echoes of Aramaic in the Cliffs
Maaloula feels like a portal from another world. Nestled into rock faces, it’s one of the last places on Earth where Aramaic – the ancient language of Jesus – is still spoken.
The Couvent Sts. Serge et Bacchus was especially moving. A place of faith, survival, and beauty, elders will still greet you with Eeeselmen and Allohenmeesh – “God be with you.” A local guide sang enchanting prayers for us in Aramaic, then served us delicious local wine and fermented raisin.
From here, you can walk along tall cliffs overlooking the city. There are awesome viewpoints, and it’s definitely a great instagram spot for some nice photos or reels. As you continue down the cliffs, you make it to a gap in-between massive cliffs.
Walking between these gigantic lantern-studded cliffs in Maaloula will bring you back to Petra – without the hoards of tourists. And as you exit the narrow walkway, just as with the gorgeous Treasury down in Jordan, a stupendous rock-hewn church, the Convent of St Thechla, sneaks its way into view and bedazzles you. It’s also worth a visit (partly because it’s refreshing cool there!)
Homs: A Touching Story of Resilience
Next, we drove about 2 hours up to the incredibly historic city of Homs, which in its long storied past has seen everything from Paganism to Christianity to Islam, Assyrians to Persians to Arab Emasanis to Timurians and more.
One can easily say that Homs and its surrounding suffered the most during the war. From May 2011 to May 2014, the city was besieged, leading to the highest number of casualties in the entire country. Just this past December, Homs was an epicenter of fighting during the Operation Dawn of Freedom that led to the toppling of the Assad regime. To say that this city has suffered would be an understatement.
And in spite of the tragedy, warfare, and destruction, one thing stood out: the incredible and touching friendliness of the people. We stumbled into a ‘manoushi’ bakery run by a family who had lost everything. Their building was leveled during the war, and they escaped to Damascus. They rebuilt, brick by brick, and welcomed us with delicious pizza-like flatbreads, selfies, and open hearts.
While you’re there, you can of course visit the Khalid ibn Al-Walid Mosque or the Um al-Zennar Church, both highlighting the various religions that have brushed over the area during its long and winding history. But nothing will truly touch your soul like connecting with the locals here.
Hama: The Most Photogenic City in Syria?
Next, our drive took us up to Hama, less than an hour up the road.
In Hama, the Norias, ancient wooden water wheels purportedly dating back to 1100 BC, stand still over the now empty Orontes River. At one point, 17 of them spun freely, watering local gardens and provided irrigation across aquaduct-like structures throughout the city.
The city was the site of one of the largest protest movements during the initial Syrian uprising. However, there was minimal armed conflict and the city remained under the control of the regular army for most of the war until the December HTS initiative that toppled Assad. As a result, much of the city is intact as opposed to Homs and Aleppo.
As we climbed across the dammed river to one of the Norias, local kids came out to us offering roses, and singing beautiful Arabic songs about love. Their curiosity shined bright as they asked about where we were from and what it’s like there.
Idlib: A Tense Peace
Next, we drove up to Idlib, just over an hour north. We arrived to a spectacular December 8th freedom monument and HTS flag, and decided to commemorate with delicious halawet el-jeben, or local Syrian Sweet Cheese Rolls – a speciality there.
Idlib is complex. The HQ of HTS, it’s one of the least-visited places by outsiders – and understandably. We were restricted in movement, watched carefully, and politely asked to limit photos.
Still, we shared tea with locals, tasted sweets, and were even invited to visit the media minister’s office. Soldiers offered to take selfies with us – as long as we blurred their faces. It was clear: hospitality exists here, but so do eyes – everywhere.
Our Final Stop for the Day: Aleppo
The final part of the drive had us heading another hour north to perhaps the most historic city in Syria: Aleppo.
We finished the day with the most mouth-wateringly delicious cherry-lamb kebabs at the famous Al Kemmeh rooftop restaurant (known for once making the world’s largest fattoush dish and longest kebab skewer). With full stomachs and excitement for the next day, we check into the Aleppo Palace Hotel for a lovely night’s rest after a long day.
💡 Did you know? Aleppo was once the culinary capital of the Levant.
Where to Stay in Aleppo
- Luxury: Sheraton Aleppo Hotel. Under some sort of agreement, this hotel remained safe and practically undamaged throughout the war, even as fighting occurred right outside its walls.
- Mid-Range: Aleppo Palace Hotel. Basic rooms, great service, and excellent breakfast overlooking the central square of Aleppo.
- Basic: Dar Halabia. A hidden, authentic, gem of a local stay. My recommendation.
Day 3: Aleppo – Tragedy, Tenacity, and Beauty Among the Rubble
Aleppo cracked me open. What an incredible city.
We started the day with another delicious breakfast at the rooftop restaurant of the Aleppo Palace Hotel overlooking the central square. We hopped in a taxi and made it straight to our first stop — the Aleppo National Museum (closed, but the offices are still open), where we’d get our permits to visit the Citadel (Google Maps Location: 643X+CVP, Aleppo, Syria).
Next, we visited a place Lawrence of Arabia once stayed, and one Agatha Christie wrote part one of her famous Murder on the Orient Express (in room 203, in case you’re curious).
The Hotel Baron, now derelict and abandoned, once housed famous figures like the Prime Minister Nasser of Egypt, who declared unity between Egypt and Syria from the balcony of one of its rooms. It’s a fascinating place to visit, like stepping into a Time Machine to the 1950s, frozen in time.
The Aleppo Citadel: A Glorious Testament to Syria
Next, we made our way towards the Citadel, with our eyes peeled out the windows towards unfathomable damage and destruction surrounding. The Citadel looms over the city like a wounded king.
The entrance took us across a majestic stone bridge, where we meet a local guide who may just best photographer we’ve ever met. Seriously — he knows how to use my iPhone camera better than I do. Like the Ottoman, Byzantine, and even Armenians once did, we climbed up and down its majestic halls, tunnels, and chambers into temples, prayer rooms, baths, and dungeons. Our guide showed us the machicolations where soldiers could pour burning hot oil to prevent entry into the citadel, as well as secret escape tunnels from the throne hall. Very fascinating architecture!
The citadel has suffered extensive damage, not only from wars and bombings, but also from numerous earthquakes – most notably the 2023 earthquake (the same one I tried to volunteer to help, only to face my first visa rejection ever). We watched as excavationists from Germany began efforts to restore the citadel.
There are numerous cafes with stunning views on the Citadel, and the lovely famous coffee guy of Aleppo shares his beautiful singing and delicious Arabic coffee while recounting his experiences during the war.
Aleppo’s Old Town
Near the base of the citadel lies the Old Souq, nearly leveled during the fighting, is slowly being rebuilt. After a slow walk through the rubble, we make it to the first gate.
There, we meet a man who turned his bombed-out shop into a falafel cafe during the siege. He was radiant, full of joy, warmth, hospitality, the kind that touches your soul and stays with you when you leave. He invited us to play Backgammon, a fun dice-based game dating back over 1,600 years.
After a lovely game (and losing miserably), we walked into the newly reconstructed section of the Souq. We were surprised by what we saw. It was actually crowded, fully of shops and friendly shopkeepers. As you walk through, smell of soap and spices wafts through the alleys. We were invited several times to visit shops, offered gifts, and asked if we needed help. It was all genuine – never pushy, the most relaxed kind of shopping one can ever do. I loved it.
I’m not a shopaholic, but I walked out of that Old Souq with bags on nuts, spices, a fresh cappuccino, and souvenirs. I looked like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman.
An old man showed us around the famous Aleppo Jebeili Soap Factory, which has been passed down from generation to generation for 800 years! Apparently, Syrians like to smell good, because there was a lot of soap being made.
Alive and Kicking
At night, we walked through what felt like Marseilles in the Al-Jamelaiah. Along the way, we crossed busy markets and nice restaurants, walked by families playing with their kids, and enjoyed a feeling of peace and serenity you don’t get in any large US city.
I was caught off guard by two local men excitedly greeting us with smiles and friendly ‘hellos’, happy to see foreigners visiting their city, as we walked through a market.
You simply cannot take a step outside in Syria without feeling welcomed and appreciated everywhere you go.
Must Dos in Aleppo in 2025:
- Explore the Aleppo Citadel: Walk through one of the world’s oldest and largest castles, where history echoes from every stone. Don’t miss the panoramic views over the city and the chance to meet passionate local guides who bring the ancient walls to life.
- Wander the Old Souq: Though heavily damaged, the Old Souq is slowly coming back to life. Stroll through alleys filled with spices, handcrafted goods, and warm smiles. Be sure to visit the Aleppo Jebeili Soap Factory to see the famous 800-year-old tradition of natural soap-making.
- Visit the Hotel Baron: Step back in time at this iconic hotel where Agatha Christie wrote and Lawrence of Arabia stayed. Its faded grandeur tells stories of Aleppo’s cosmopolitan past.
- Taste Aleppine Cuisine: Indulge in local delicacies like kebabs at Al Kemmeh rooftop restaurant or sample baklava and fresh Arabic coffee in the souq cafes. Food here is a gateway to the city’s soul.
- Meet Locals: Whether it’s playing Backgammon with local men in the Old Souq or enjoying delicious Arabic coffee on a rooftop, interact and talk with locals. They’re absolutely lovely.
Day 4: From Aleppo to Raqqa – Into the Shadowlands
We started our day early in anticipation of passing through dozens of checkpoints. Going to Raqqa is like entering a different country. A major reason for going with a tour guide in Syria is, in fact, specifically to arrange permits to visit Raqqa. And trust me – it’s worth it.
Kurdish forces control the area, and they mean business. The Kurdish SDF is instrumental in helping defeat terrorist groups and has worked alongside US troops for many years. But they don’t align with HTS, the current ruling administration, and don’t even recognize Syria’s new government. So we assumed we were in for a rough passage.
But what we got was quite a nice surprise. Although the lead officer was very direct when he walked onto the bus and ordered us around, each subsequent interaction was surprisingly positive. Nearly everyone was curious, excited to see tourists. Some hadn’t seen a foreign visitor in years. Agents with AK-47 Kalashnikovs and hidden pistols giddily asked to take selfies with us, excited to learn where we were from, and inviting us for a smoke. We got our stamps of approval on a special cache, and right before leaving, we were delighted to be asked by the lead officer for selfies too!
Must sees on the way to Ar Raqqa, Syria
On our way to Raqqa, we made two stops – one at the spectacular Qalat Jab’ar, a 12th century brick-ladder castle on an artificial hill-top island overlooking the Euphrates Valley and the Mediterranean-colored Lake Assad, and another at the Euphrates itself (my first time there!), watching as a spearfisher jumped into the turquoise water.
Visiting Qalat Jab’ar is absolutely worth it – not just for the views, the history, and the beauty, but also for the food! The restaurant here has some of the most delicious, fresh fish I’ve ever had. I’m hungry just reminiscing on it!
On the way out from castle, a lovely family invited us for a riverfront picnic with a spectacular view on the castle. We couldn’t speak the same language, but friendliness doesn’t need to be translated.
Visiting Ar Raqqa in 2025
In Ar Raqqa, the scars are raw. Once the capital of ISIS, the city bears a lot of its history on its shoulder. The Uwais Al-Qarni, once an absolutely beautiful Shia mosque, now stands as nothing more than complete rubble. Anywhere your eyes gaze, there are bullet holes.
At the Ladies’ Palace (Qasr al-Banat), I learned about palace eunuchs managing harems, and how the rooms were later used as ISIS prisons and latrines.
But amid the destruction, there was sublime and intense joy. Locals from all over invited us into homes for tea. Into shops for coffee – and each time we had to insist to pay. One older man spoke to us in German from the second floor of a now wall-less building. I replied as best I could to this man who apparently spent a couple decades in Deutschland back in the 70s-90s.
I even made a new grandma along the way. I’ve been to many countries in the region, but this was the first time I’ve been kissed on the cheek by a woman in the Middle East. You could tell she truly cared about you and only wanted the best. 🥹
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a local shop for some delicious berry sorbet and ice cream on the dusty streets. We subsequently randomly stumbled into a coffee shop and were invited us for breakfast the next day! The warm hospitality never faltered.
The whole two days we were there, we never saw a single other tourist. That’s rare.
Where to Stay in Raqqa
Not many choices – but the Al-Sari hotel is a solid 3-star with a great restaurant.
Day 5: Raqqa to Deir Ezzor – The Fascinating North of Syria
We started the day by visiting the Raqqa Museum, which has been open since 1981. It houses neat archeological exhibitions, but its most important aspect is the workers and their vast local knowledge. On the way out, we couldn’t help but get some more ice cream (it’s really that good) before visiting some souls as well as the town’s famous 7th of April Park (as featured in the Netflix show Caliphate).
I had an interesting experience where two teenagers came onboard the bus and greeted me — the Syrian way! It’s like “la bise” in France, but there’s a third shoulder air kiss. They were exuberant to see us!
Exiting Raqqa meant visiting the local ministry, as the general loves meeting tourists and checking on their experiences there.
Deir Ezzor: Beauty Amidst the Destruction
The road to Deir Ezzor was definitely eye-opening. The level of damage, and the desolate desert landscapes stood out from the rest of the country. A barrage of checkpoints awaits you as you leave the autonomous zone of Raqqa.
As we entered the city, we were even more shaken by what we saw. Deir Ezzor endured a two-year siege by ISIS, and retaliation from the Assad regime meant complete and utter demolition of more than 75% of the city by airstrike. The destruction is almost incomprehensible, particularly in the “rich” neighborhoods (Deir Ezzor is known for its oil reserves).
Deir Ezzor is worth a visit simply for its humbling effect. I’ve never in my life seen such levels of destruction. Yet amidst collapsed roofs, churches, bridges, and rubble, we ran into a family having a lovely picnic and kids swimming in the clear water of the Euphrates. A beautiful dichotomy.
The suspension bridge, once the highlight of Deir Ezzor, is gone. Only the still-standing towers remind you of what once was. The ancient souq, a beautiful arch-lined, once vibrant market, is now full of mines, falling apart, and totally inaccessible.
But people are rebuilding. We found a new café, opened just 10 days earlier by ex-soldiers, offering hookah and hope. The owners even sat down with us, sipping on tea at the beautiful Freedom Square, sharing their stories and hopes for the future.
For dinner, we found the lovely Talileh restaurant on the riverbank of the Euphrates. We shared mint lemonade, delicious ‘Deiri’ lamb kebabs, and laughter as locals smoked hookah and dolphin fountains shot out water. It felt like another world.
This is Syria. This is humanity.
Where to Stay in Deir EzZur
Badiat Al-Sham. That is all. Fabulous 4-star hotel with a great location.
Day 6: Palmyra – Memory Amid Ruins
The road to Palmyra was eerily quiet. Smooth highway gives way to potholes, sand, and the occasional 18-wheeler for a long 2.5 hour drive.
Once again, we were taken by the level of destruction in Palmyra. The city feels nearly-abandoned, and there is damage anywhere you look.
Unfortunately, the incredibly ruins of Palmyra were not excluded from the violence and petulance of ISIS. ISIS hung soldiers in the Roman amphitheater, blew up the Temple of Bel, pillaged the tombs, stole and damaged gorgeous mosaics and tablets, and even filmed it all live.
But standing in the Tomb of the Three Brothers, once used as a prison by ISIS, we learned of a heartwarming story – in the most direct way possible. We crawled into the hole soldiers used to escape, inadvertently discovering a second tomb on their way out. If you’re claustrophobic, it’s definitely worth avoiding. Low, unsupported mud/sand ceilings are all that are holding the roof up, and there’s just a small hole to let light in.
Outside is a lovely aquifer local kids use to cool down on a hot day.
As the sun started its afternoon decline towards the horizon, we munched on fresh shawarma at a nearby Bedouin camp. There’s something magical about sipping delicious tea among 2,000-year-old columns, wrapped in silence and history.
Where to stay in Palmyra:
The Bedouin Camp. Two gamping-style tents, clean bathroom with shower, great food, billion dollar views of the ruins for sunrise. Price depends how you negotiate. (WhatsApp: +963934014608, Kaldoun)
Krak des Chevaliers: A Crusader’s Fortress, a Syrian Pride
From Palmyra, we picked up a friendly, clearly intelligent Austrian physicist hitchhiking his way around Syria. On the road, we stopped by an abandoned T-55 Soviet Tanker for some quick photos, then continued our way to the Krak des Chevaliers fortress.
Krak might be the best-preserved crusader castle in the world. Built by the Hospitallers in the 11th century, later expanded by the Ottomans, it towers over the valley like a medieval dream, standing out dramatically.
It was empty and quiet when we arrived, but if you listen closely, you can almost hear the clinking of armor and smell the smoke from old hearths. (I hope you cannot smell the latrines.)
A local guide opened up the castle for us after hours, so we not only got to enjoy this massive complex all to ourselves, but also the most beautiful sunset I saw the entire trip in Syria. Truly magical.
Back to the start
We made our way back to Damascus for the last 2.5 hour drive of the day. We stopped at the most incredible ‘fast-food’ place for a quick dinner 45 minutes outside the city. I wish I remembered the name, as it was incredible food, amazing value, and the workers were unbelievably friendly (so much free dessert was given to us that night!)
For a Thursday night, Bab Touma was packed! I loved seeing everyone out enjoying life, sipping at rooftop cafes and smoking hookah at century-old, glamorous restaurants.
Day 7: Bosra – A Final Act of Grandeur
We started early for our final day in Syria, driving about 2 hours out to the ancient town of Bosra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although it, too, has suffered immensely during the war (a sniper once used a castle tower as his spot), much of the city remains in decent shape.
It’s such a historic and majestic city, Philip the Arab minted currency especially for it. According to UNESCO, “Bosra survived about 2500 years inhabited and almost intact. The Nabataeans, Romans, Byzantines and Umayyad, all left traces in the city, which is an open museum associated with significant episodes in the history of ideas and beliefs.”
Of utter importance, the Roman theater of Bosra is stunningly intact. Walking below the center-stage provides a visceral feeling of awe, like you’re absorbing centuries of history just being there.
We met a local at a rooftop cafe overlooking the city, who reminisced about his childhood watching hoards of tourists visiting its historic churches, mosques, and Roman ruins. It was his first time revisiting his own country in over two decades, and he was cautiously optimistic of the future to come. I was touched by his story, and share his cautious excitement for this spectacular country.
Bosra reminds you: Syria is not one history. It’s many. Layered. Colliding. Surviving.
Crossing Back – Reflection
Driving back across Damascus on my way to the border, I couldn’t help but be grateful. This country is filled with generosity, love, humility, hospitality, and genuine friendliness. It’s a humbling place to visit, and one I yearn to return back to.
But crossing back into Lebanon, I felt a strange feeling settle over me. The process itself wasn’t hard. Just a few lines, a few stamps.
[There is a small fee on the Lebanese side (1 million LBP, which the local exchange man offers for an excessive $12), which buys you the entry stamp. Once it’s all done, you’re through, welcome to Lebanon, done and done.
Pro Tip: arrive with 1 million LBP]
But emotionally… I felt it in my soul.
Crossing from Syria to Lebanon: Easy, Yet Difficult
Because just steps apart, on either side of one invisible line, lie two very different worlds.
On one side: working ATMs, Starbucks and McDonals, electricity that stays on. Pharmacies lit up at night, life moving forward with ease.
On the other: entire cities bombed into silence. Skeletons of homes, broken mosques, shattered schools. Generations displaced. Families torn apart.
The same language. The same people.
But one side spared, and the other devastated-not by natural disaster, but by human hands.
And now, having seen it with my own eyes, I can’t unsee it.
The scale of destruction across Syria is almost impossible to grasp. It’s not just buildings that were lost, it’s peoples’ homes, sanctuaries, businesses.
Yet in spite of this, you have the nicest, most selfless, hospitable people.
To sit in a cafe built in the ruins of Deir Ezzor, open only ten days, and drink tea with smiling ex-soldiers.
To be invited into shops for coffee in Ar Raqqa, to be given tea leaves by strangers, to be kissed by my new grandma, and to see laughter and happiness on the streets of Damascus…
That’s the real Syria.
And it reminded me that the best way to support a country like this isn’t through headlines or hashtags.
It’s by going. By sharing meals. Listening.
By spending your money in the small, brave places trying to rebuild.
Because every cup of tea, every shared story, is a tiny act of resistance. A step toward healing.
I don’t know what the future holds for Syria. But I do know this:
I’m grateful I came.
I’m humbled by what I saw.
And I hope—if you ever get the chance—you’ll see it too.
Final Thoughts
I came with curiosity. I left with reverence.
To everyone who shared a cup of tea, a meal, a story: thank you. You reminded me what travel is really about.
To Syria — the real Syria. 🇸🇾
Syria Travel Tips
Cultural
- Always ask before taking pictures and videos of people, and assume they aren’t OK with it (particularly women).
- Although I did see men in shorts in many areas, pants/leg coverings are required in most mosques and generally better accepted. Dressing modestly is always a good idea.
- Don’t take pictures of military, policemen, or other government officials without explicit permission. Don’t worry – they’ll often ask you for a photo.
Technology
- Use a VPN: ExpressVPN worked well throughout Syria, though you still won’t get SMS or Wi-Fi calling.
- Be careful logging into sensitive accounts — Microsoft locked me out instantly.
- Bring a phone with a physical SIM card slot to get a local SIM card for cheap. eSIMs are more difficult to procure, and more expensive.
Exchange Rates
- These vary wildly. We typically saw around 9000SYP to 1USD, but these fluctuate up and down several thousand SYP depending on the geopolitical situation. Euros are worth slightly more, but the best value comes from exchanging USD.
- They were not particular about the condition of our bills, and the exchange rate was the same regardless of the denomination (ie $20 bill vs $100 bill).
Typical Costs Visiting Syria in 2025
- Street food falafel and shawarma typically cost 5-15,000 SYP ($.50-1.50), and you can buy quite a few sublime cheese, zaatar, and tomato manoushi flatbreads for the same price.
- Most restaurant meals come out to $20-25, and most places accept USD. There are more fast food-style places (roasted chicken, fries, salad) where you can eat for about 20-50,000 SYP ($2-5) per person.
- Local home stays and guesthouses typically cost $10-20 per night, while hotels are closer to $35-60+ depending on your standards.
- Transportation around the country is very inexpensive and easy, usually in the style of $2-10 between major cities. There are unofficial stations filled with minivans in every city. Some examples:
- Damascus – Homs: ~85,000SYP ($8-9)
- Homs – Aleppo: ~85,000SYP ($8-9)
- Idlib – Aleppo: ~25,000SYP ($2-3)
- You may need to hitchhike or hire a taxi/driver for places like Maaloula, Busra, Krak des Chevaliers, etc.
- A guide is likely required to visit Raqqa in order to facilitate the proper permit to enter and exit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Why Visit Syria?
If I can say one thing, it’s that after traveling to over 150 countries, I felt most touched, most grateful, most welcomed in Syria. And I feel it’s so important to give back to these wonderful people and help them get back on their feet.
If you can go responsibly, with respect, preparation, and the right attitude: go. Spend money in local businesses. Write about your experience. Show the world what Syria is – not what the headlines said it was.
Q: Is it safe to visit Syria in 2025?
A: While Syria has faced significant conflict, many areas including key historic sites and hotels are now accessible with proper planning. Always check current travel advisories. It’s also recommended, but not required to arrange your visit through experienced fixers or tour operators (Mozaic tours is the one I used).
Q: Do I need a visa or special permits to visit Syria?
A: Visitors generally need a Syrian visa. As of June 2025, most nationalities may receive a visa on arrival by land border from Lebanon or Jordan, and by air at Damascus International Airport. Check latest info here.
Note: To visit Ar Raqqa, it’s highly recommended to travel with a guide or tour company that can help arrange necessary permits (such as the one I listed above).
Q: What is the best time of year to visit Syria?
A: Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer mild weather, perfect for exploring the city comfortably without the intense summer heat.
The Syrian countryside is stunning in winter as well, as Syria often sees snow in the mountains!
Q: What currency is used and can I use USD?
A: The Syrian Pound (SYP) is the official currency, but many places in Syria accept USD. EUR might be accepted but rates are generally not as favorable. It’s advisable to carry some local currency for small purchases and street food. Exchange rates vary hugely day to day.
Q: Do I need to speak Arabic in Syria?
A: English is not widely spoken outside tourist and business areas, so having a guide or using apps like Google Translate is helpful. Make sure to download the language ahead of time in case you don’t have internet.
Q: What should I wear when visiting Syria?
A: Modest clothing is recommended, covering shoulders and knees, especially when visiting religious sites. Women might consider a scarf for mosque visits.
Q: How can I get around Syria?
A: Between cities, shared taxis are common and inexpensive. Inside of cities, taxis and private drivers are common ways to navigate. Walking is safe and accessible in all Syrian cities.
Q: Can I access Wi-Fi and mobile data in Syria?
A: Mobile coverage exists but can be spotty. Buying a local SIM card with data is recommended. Wi-Fi is available at major hotels and some cafes.
Q: Are credit cards accepted in Syria?
A: Most businesses operate on a cash basis, so it’s best to carry cash. I never saw a functioning ATM or POS, but this might change as the sanctions are lifted.
